Tuesday, April 27, 2010

Pilgrimage to the Stains

Judges Cave, G.H Durrie, 1856

After a few days of rain I figured climbing outside today was out of the question. I was planning to head to the climbing gym but my friend Mike was psyched to go and do the Brown Stain, at Judges Cave (aka the Brown Stains), New Haven. The Stains are nestled in a field above West Rock in New Haven and usually dry out faster than any other blocs in the area because of their exposure to sun and wind.

I usually make the pilgrimage down to these boulders once or so a year just to switch it up and to grab some quality pizza in New Haven. It is by no mean a destination spot as the Stains are comprised of only 3 boulders. Although, just about every side of these boulders can be climbed on and the rock is really solid. The weathered rock has formed some really cool grips and the landings are pretty flat. Starting in May you can drive right up to the boulders, so all in all it a pretty good little spot.

The Brown Stain is the test piece for the area and one of the many fun problems that I climbed on while I was living and going to school in the area. There are a bunch of other lines , eliminates, variations and link ups on the blocs as well. Some being quite tall to extremely low ball, some quite good and some not so good. This was the perfect place to go and rattle off a bunch of problems when I had limited time and and limited gas money to go elsewhere.

These rocks have a very interesting history and the small cave in which the Brown Stain start is the entrance to was once the hiding place for Edward Whalley and his son-in-law, Gen. William Goffe. Here in this little cave the two men hid in order to avoid persecution from King Charles II.. To learn more about this story google: Judges Cave New Haven and you will find all sorts of information about this.

Anyhow here is a little video I shot of a few of the problems on the boulders.

No comments: